Germany: Tuesday, Wednesday

Downtime between press checks on Tuesday and Wednesday were spent exploring the winding, cobbled streets of historic Old Town Esslingen. And I'm telling you, it's one of the prettiest places I've ever seen. I seriously want to live there. It's also one of the few ancient cities in Germany that survived the Second World War intact. And this small village contains a not so small amount of interesting things to see: styles from the Middle Ages through Art Nouveau and Modernism, basically over 1200 years of history preserved in the architecture and art.


In the heart of Old Town stood the Old Town Hall, one of the landmarks of Esslingen. Though extensively modernized in the Renaissance era, the building's clock still functions with it's original clockwork from 1591 and is one of the oldest in Germany. From it's carillon tower melodies are heard five times a day.


The new town hall was formerly a Baroque city palace, built in the mid-18th century by the noble and influential family von Palm as their residential home. They picked the most beautiful location in the town, right opposite the old town hall. Since 1840 it has been the town hall of Esslingen and seat of the mayor and magistrate.


There was also the Church of St. Denis. Its north tower was built in 1275 and its south tower was built in 1310. And they were later joined together for structural reasons. Inside, the late-Romanesque pillars, the choir screen, the high altar, the tabernacle and the choir stalls are beautiful. And particularly stunning are the 700-year-old stained glass windows in the choir, which originated exclusively in Esslinger workshops and are among the largest in southwestern Germany.


A small section of old town is nicknamed "Little Venice" due to its location on the Neckar River canal. This canal and others have provided the power to drive mill wheels and tools in artisans' workshops for centuries. Remarkably some of these originals wheels were preserved and still run today.


The Esslingen marketplace has been used since 1811 as a place for a local farmer's market every Wednesday and Saturday and for other events throughout the year. I happened to be there for their annual Zqiebelfest, or Onion Festival, which is held every year during the first week of August. Apparently, this festival originated from an old folk tale from the middle ages in which a market woman tricked the devil into leaving Esslingen by giving him an onion when he demanded an apple. From then on the citizens of Esslingen have been known as “little onions." Local restaurants set up tables and tents while serving traditional German food featuring onions and beer.


More to come . . .